August 5th, 2007 by George
In 2006, Money Magazine put together their annual list of the Best Places in the country to live.
Mt. Pleasant, South Carolina came in at number 70 out of the top 100.
View how Mt. Pleasant and Charleston stack up compared to the top 10 here
August 3rd, 2007 by George
Data from Charleston Trident Association of Realtors.
Median home price is up 5% over 2006 so far in 2007.
Data is year to date as of July 25, 2007.
August 3rd, 2007 by George
Closing the Deal
Here is where you exercise your negotiating muscles
Once you find the house you want, you need to move quickly to make your bid. If you’re working with a buyer’s broker, then get advice from him or her on an initial offer. If you’re working with a seller’s agent, devise the strategy yourself.
Try to line up data on at least three houses that have sold recently in the neighborhood. Calculate the difference between the original list price and the final price of the homes sold.
If the average difference is, say, 5 percent below the asking price, then you know you can make an offer 8 percent to 10 percent below, leaving yourself a little room to negotiate. If you really want the house, don’t lowball. The seller may give up in disgust.
Another factor to consider in determining your bid is whether the trend in recent home sales is up or down over the past year. For instance, if houses a year ago were selling at list, and recent ones are going at 3 percent below, then you might want to sharpen your pencil for your opening bid to just 5 to 8 percent below list.
There’s no foolproof system for negotiating a fair price. Occasionally it’s best to deal directly with the seller yourself. More often it’s better to work exclusively through intermediaries. In general, don’t let the other side begin to believe you are negotiating in bad faith or being deceptive — any deal you eventually reach has to involve trust on both sides.
Be creative about finding ways to satisfy the seller’s needs. For instance, ask if the seller would throw in kitchen and laundry appliances if you meet his price — or take them away in exchange for a lower price. Remember, too, that your leverage depends on the pace of the market. In a slow market, you’ve got muscle; in a hot market, you may have none at all.
Once you reach a mutually acceptable price, the seller’s agent will draw up an offer to purchase that includes an estimated closing date (usually 45 to 60 days from acceptance of the offer).
Have your lawyer or buyers agent review this document to make sure the deal is contingent upon:
1. your obtaining a mortgage;
2. a home inspection that shows no significant defects (make sure you’re clear on the definition of “significant”);
3. a guarantee that you may conduct a walk-through inspection 24 hours before closing. This last clause allows you to check the home after the sellers have moved out so that you have time to negotiate payment for repairs, just in case the movers cause any damage, or that big living room sofa was hiding a hole in the floor.
July 29th, 2007 by George
The Hunt
Now it’s time to hit the pavement, or Web, in search of a new home
Your first step here is to figure out what city or neighborhood you want to live in. (Remember the old saw about “location, location, location.”)
For overall demographics and data on metropolitan areas, you can visit a city site like CNNMoney.com’s annual Best Places to Live list. For more detailed neighborhood information, check out sites like dontrenew.com, Yahoo! Real Estate, Homepages.com or NeighborhoodScout for comprehensive school and demographic information on a number of communities. Look for signs of economic vitality: a mixture of young families and older couples, low unemployment and good incomes.
Pay special attention to districts with good schools (high teacher-student ratios and graduation rates are among the hallmarks), even if you don’t have school-age children. When it comes time to sell, you’ll find that a strong school system is a major advantage in helping your home retain or gain value.
Try also to get an idea about the real estate market in the area. For example, if homes are selling close to or even above the asking price, that shows the area is desirable. Try Homegain.com, which is free, or Dataquick.com, which is available only to paid subscribers, to check out recent home sales.
Your real estate agent may also be able to show you listings. Incidentally, if you have the flexibility, consider doing your house hunt in the off-season — meaning, generally, the colder months of the year. You’ll have less competition and sellers may be more willing to negotiate.
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July 29th, 2007 by George
Picking a Team
Don’t buy a home without professional help
With all the tools and advice available today ranging from books and magazines to online advice like this lesson - it would be possible for you to buy your home almost completely without the aid of real estate professionals.
That’s not necessarily recommended. The housing market, like politics, is basically local, and each state, city, and even neighborhood has a thicket of local laws or customs that you need to understand. For that, it helps to have a team of professionals to guide you.
You might want to start by finding an agent who can represent your interests in the search. This is not as simple as it sounds. Sure, 85 percent of sellers list their homes through an agent - but those agents are working for the seller, not you. They’re paid based on a percentage, usually 5 to 7 percent of the purchase price, so their interest will be in getting you to pay more.
What you need is what’s known as an “exclusive buyer agent.” Sometimes buyer agents are paid directly by you, on an hourly or contracted fee. Other times they split the commission that the seller’s agent gets upon sale. A buyer’s representative has the same access to homes for sale that a seller’s agent does, but his or her allegiance is supposed to be only to you.
To complicate matters, there are hybrid agencies called either single-agency or dual-agency brokers. In both cases, an individual agent in the firm may represent either sellers or buyers, sometimes both, in the same transaction. Potential conflicts of interest abound in this situation, so if you are seeking a buyer agent but no exclusive buyer agent is available, make sure to ask the agent about conflicts of interest.
There are now about a dozen Web sites that help connect buyers with buyers agents, among them dontrenew.com, HomeGain.com, House.com, RealEstate.com and Reply.com.
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July 28th, 2007 by George
Getting the Money Right
For most people, buying a house involves a double financial whammy.
First you have to assemble a pile of cash for the down payment and closing costs. Then you must convince a bank to lend you an even more staggering sum - generally 80 percent or more of the purchase price.
So your first step, even before you start the actual hunt for a property, should be to get your financial house in order.
Start with your credit
Credit reports are kept by the three major credit agencies, Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. Among other things, they show whether you are habitually late with payments and whether you have run into serious credit problems in the past.
A credit score is a number calculated by Fair Isaac based on the information in your credit report. You have three different credit scores, one for each of your credit reports.
A low credit score may hurt your chances for getting the best interest rate, or getting financing at all. So get a copy of your reports and know your credit scores. Try Fair Isaac’s MyFICO.com, which charges upwards of $50 for all three reports and scores.
Errors are not uncommon. If you find any, you must contact the agencies directly to correct them, which can take two or three months to resolve. If the report is accurate but shows past problems, be prepared to explain them to a loan officer.
Know what you can afford
Next, you need to determine how much house you can afford. You can start with one of the Web’s many calculators. For a more accurate figure, ask to be pre-approved by a lender, who will look at your income, debt and credit to determine the kind of loan that’s in your league.
The rule of thumb here is to aim for a home that costs about two-and-a-half times your gross annual salary. If you have significant credit card debt or other financial obligations like alimony or even an expensive hobby, then you may need to set your sights lower.
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July 28th, 2007 by George
Are You Ready to Own
Home ownership means you no longer pay monthly rent for the roof over your head. You can do what you want with your house (within reason). When you leave, you can sell it to recoup the purchase price and - with any luck - earn a profit too.
But don’t kid yourself. home ownership comes with a slew of disadvantages, responsibilities, and downright headaches.
So before going any further, consider whether your lifestyle and finances make homebuying a smart move.
TIP: High costs mean you should be prepared to say put. Except in a roaring real estate market, it usually doesn’t make sense to buy a home you’ll own for less than three or four years. Reason: the high transaction cost of buying and selling property means you could lose money on the deal. If you do make money, you’ll pay capital gains taxes if you’re in the house less than two years.
So ask yourself if you can really stay put for that long. Will you need to move because you are transferred by your current employer or a new one? Are you thinking of going back to school?
TIP: It may make more sense to rent On the financial side, one key question is whether it costs more, on average, to rent or own in your area. The rule of thumb is that if you pay 35 percent less in rent than you would for owning - including the monthly mortgage, property taxes, and any homeowner’s fees - then it’s smarter to continue renting.
Only if all those answers still point towards owning should you proceed to the next step - getting the money right.
July 28th, 2007 by George
Buying 101 Parts 1-6 brought to you by money.cnn.com
Top things to know…
1. Don’t buy if you can’t stay put.
If you can’t commit to remaining in one place for at least a few years, then owning is probably not for you, at least not yet. With the transaction costs of buying and selling a home, you may end up losing money if you sell any sooner.
2. Start by shoring up your credit.
Since you most likely will need to get a mortgage to buy a house, you must make sure your credit history is as clean as possible. A few months before you start house hunting, get copies of your credit report. Make sure the facts are correct, and fix any problems you discover.
3. Aim for a home you can really afford.
The rule of thumb is that you can buy housing that runs about two-and-one-half times your annual salary. But you’ll do better to use one of many calculators available online to get a better handle on how your income, debts, and expenses affect what you can afford.
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July 26th, 2007 by George
450, 550, 650, 720, 800…
What do these numbers mean?
(find out what is on your credit report, for free, by going to the Government’s website at annualcreditreport.com - this website gives you a copy of your credit report from the 3 reporting agencies once per year)
FICO scores places a value on the types of accounts you hold, as well as your credit history. The formula that determines your FICO scores, however, is not disclosed to the consumer.
The FICO scoring scale runs from 300 to 850. The vast majority of people will have scores between 600 and 800. A score of 720 or higher will get you the most favorable interest rates on a mortgage, according to data from Fair Isaac Corp., a California-based company that developed the credit score. (Its own score is called the FICO score.)
The 5 most important factors to determining your FICO credit score are:
Key factors of your FICO Credit Score
Just what goes into the score? Pretty much everything in your credit report, with different kinds of information carrying differing weights, says Fair Isaac consumer affairs manager Craig Watts. The model looks at more than 20 factors in five categories.
1. How you pay your bills (35 percent of the score)
The most important factor for your FICO score is how you’ve paid your bills in the past, placing the most emphasis on recent activity. Paying all your bills on time is good. Paying them late on a consistent basis is bad. Having accounts that were sent to collections is worse. Declaring bankruptcy is worst.
2. Amount of money you owe and the amount of available credit (30 percent)
The second most important area for a FICO score is your outstanding debt — how much money you owe on credit cards, car loans, mortgages, home equity lines, etc. Also considered is the total amount of credit you have available. If you have 10 credit cards that each have $10,000 credit limits, that’s $100,000 of available credit. Statistically, people who have a lot of credit available tend to use it, which makes them a less attractive credit risk.Carrying a lot of debt doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have a lower score. It doesn’t hurt as much as carrying close to the maximum. People who consistently max out their balances are perceived as riskier. People who never use their credit don’t have a track history. People with the highest FICO scores use credit sparingly and keep their balances low.
3. Length of credit history (15 percent)
The third factor is the length of your FICO credit score history. The longer you’ve had credit — particularly if it’s with the same credit issuers — the more points you get.
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