July 29th, 2007 by George

The Hunt

Now it’s time to hit the pavement, or Web, in search of a new home
Your first step here is to figure out what city or neighborhood you want to live in. (Remember the old saw about “location, location, location.”)

For overall demographics and data on metropolitan areas, you can visit a city site like CNNMoney.com’s annual Best Places to Live list. For more detailed neighborhood information, check out sites like dontrenew.com, Yahoo! Real Estate, Homepages.com or NeighborhoodScout for comprehensive school and demographic information on a number of communities. Look for signs of economic vitality: a mixture of young families and older couples, low unemployment and good incomes.

Pay special attention to districts with good schools (high teacher-student ratios and graduation rates are among the hallmarks), even if you don’t have school-age children. When it comes time to sell, you’ll find that a strong school system is a major advantage in helping your home retain or gain value.

Try also to get an idea about the real estate market in the area. For example, if homes are selling close to or even above the asking price, that shows the area is desirable. Try Homegain.com, which is free, or Dataquick.com, which is available only to paid subscribers, to check out recent home sales.

Your real estate agent may also be able to show you listings. Incidentally, if you have the flexibility, consider doing your house hunt in the off-season — meaning, generally, the colder months of the year. You’ll have less competition and sellers may be more willing to negotiate.
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July 29th, 2007 by George

Picking a Team

Don’t buy a home without professional help

With all the tools and advice available today ranging from books and magazines to online advice like this lesson - it would be possible for you to buy your home almost completely without the aid of real estate professionals.

That’s not necessarily recommended. The housing market, like politics, is basically local, and each state, city, and even neighborhood has a thicket of local laws or customs that you need to understand. For that, it helps to have a team of professionals to guide you.

You might want to start by finding an agent who can represent your interests in the search. This is not as simple as it sounds. Sure, 85 percent of sellers list their homes through an agent - but those agents are working for the seller, not you. They’re paid based on a percentage, usually 5 to 7 percent of the purchase price, so their interest will be in getting you to pay more.

What you need is what’s known as an “exclusive buyer agent.” Sometimes buyer agents are paid directly by you, on an hourly or contracted fee. Other times they split the commission that the seller’s agent gets upon sale. A buyer’s representative has the same access to homes for sale that a seller’s agent does, but his or her allegiance is supposed to be only to you.

To complicate matters, there are hybrid agencies called either single-agency or dual-agency brokers. In both cases, an individual agent in the firm may represent either sellers or buyers, sometimes both, in the same transaction. Potential conflicts of interest abound in this situation, so if you are seeking a buyer agent but no exclusive buyer agent is available, make sure to ask the agent about conflicts of interest.

There are now about a dozen Web sites that help connect buyers with buyers agents, among them dontrenew.com, HomeGain.com, House.com, RealEstate.com and Reply.com.
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July 28th, 2007 by George

Getting the Money Right

For most people, buying a house involves a double financial whammy.

First you have to assemble a pile of cash for the down payment and closing costs. Then you must convince a bank to lend you an even more staggering sum - generally 80 percent or more of the purchase price.

So your first step, even before you start the actual hunt for a property, should be to get your financial house in order.

Start with your credit

Credit reports are kept by the three major credit agencies, Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. Among other things, they show whether you are habitually late with payments and whether you have run into serious credit problems in the past.

A credit score is a number calculated by Fair Isaac based on the information in your credit report. You have three different credit scores, one for each of your credit reports.

A low credit score may hurt your chances for getting the best interest rate, or getting financing at all. So get a copy of your reports and know your credit scores. Try Fair Isaac’s MyFICO.com, which charges upwards of $50 for all three reports and scores.

Errors are not uncommon. If you find any, you must contact the agencies directly to correct them, which can take two or three months to resolve. If the report is accurate but shows past problems, be prepared to explain them to a loan officer.

Know what you can afford

Next, you need to determine how much house you can afford. You can start with one of the Web’s many calculators. For a more accurate figure, ask to be pre-approved by a lender, who will look at your income, debt and credit to determine the kind of loan that’s in your league.

The rule of thumb here is to aim for a home that costs about two-and-a-half times your gross annual salary. If you have significant credit card debt or other financial obligations like alimony or even an expensive hobby, then you may need to set your sights lower.
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July 28th, 2007 by George

Are You Ready to Own

Home ownership means you no longer pay monthly rent for the roof over your head. You can do what you want with your house (within reason). When you leave, you can sell it to recoup the purchase price and - with any luck - earn a profit too.

But don’t kid yourself. home ownership comes with a slew of disadvantages, responsibilities, and downright headaches.

So before going any further, consider whether your lifestyle and finances make homebuying a smart move.

TIP: High costs mean you should be prepared to say put. Except in a roaring real estate market, it usually doesn’t make sense to buy a home you’ll own for less than three or four years. Reason: the high transaction cost of buying and selling property means you could lose money on the deal. If you do make money, you’ll pay capital gains taxes if you’re in the house less than two years.

So ask yourself if you can really stay put for that long. Will you need to move because you are transferred by your current employer or a new one? Are you thinking of going back to school?

TIP: It may make more sense to rent On the financial side, one key question is whether it costs more, on average, to rent or own in your area. The rule of thumb is that if you pay 35 percent less in rent than you would for owning - including the monthly mortgage, property taxes, and any homeowner’s fees - then it’s smarter to continue renting.

Only if all those answers still point towards owning should you proceed to the next step - getting the money right.

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July 28th, 2007 by George

Buying 101 Parts 1-6 brought to you by money.cnn.com
Top things to know…

1. Don’t buy if you can’t stay put.

If you can’t commit to remaining in one place for at least a few years, then owning is probably not for you, at least not yet. With the transaction costs of buying and selling a home, you may end up losing money if you sell any sooner.

2. Start by shoring up your credit.

Since you most likely will need to get a mortgage to buy a house, you must make sure your credit history is as clean as possible. A few months before you start house hunting, get copies of your credit report. Make sure the facts are correct, and fix any problems you discover.

3. Aim for a home you can really afford.

The rule of thumb is that you can buy housing that runs about two-and-one-half times your annual salary. But you’ll do better to use one of many calculators available online to get a better handle on how your income, debts, and expenses affect what you can afford.
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July 27th, 2007 by George

to be continued…

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July 26th, 2007 by George

450, 550, 650, 720, 800…

What do these numbers mean?

(find out what is on your credit report, for free, by going to the Government’s website at annualcreditreport.com - this website gives you a copy of your credit report from the 3 reporting agencies once per year)

FICO scores places a value on the types of accounts you hold, as well as your credit history. The formula that determines your FICO scores, however, is not disclosed to the consumer.

The FICO scoring scale runs from 300 to 850. The vast majority of people will have scores between 600 and 800. A score of 720 or higher will get you the most favorable interest rates on a mortgage, according to data from Fair Isaac Corp., a California-based company that developed the credit score. (Its own score is called the FICO score.)

The 5 most important factors to determining your FICO credit score are:

1. Your payment history
2. The amount of outstanding debt you have compared to your credit limit
3. Your credit history
4. The types of credit you use
5. Credit Report Inquires

Key factors of your FICO Credit Score
Just what goes into the score? Pretty much everything in your credit report, with different kinds of information carrying differing weights, says Fair Isaac consumer affairs manager Craig Watts. The model looks at more than 20 factors in five categories.

1. How you pay your bills (35 percent of the score)
The most important factor for your FICO score is how you’ve paid your bills in the past, placing the most emphasis on recent activity. Paying all your bills on time is good. Paying them late on a consistent basis is bad. Having accounts that were sent to collections is worse. Declaring bankruptcy is worst.

2. Amount of money you owe and the amount of available credit (30 percent)
The second most important area for a FICO score is your outstanding debt — how much money you owe on credit cards, car loans, mortgages, home equity lines, etc. Also considered is the total amount of credit you have available. If you have 10 credit cards that each have $10,000 credit limits, that’s $100,000 of available credit. Statistically, people who have a lot of credit available tend to use it, which makes them a less attractive credit risk.Carrying a lot of debt doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have a lower score. It doesn’t hurt as much as carrying close to the maximum. People who consistently max out their balances are perceived as riskier. People who never use their credit don’t have a track history. People with the highest FICO scores use credit sparingly and keep their balances low.

3. Length of credit history (15 percent)
The third factor is the length of your FICO credit score history. The longer you’ve had credit — particularly if it’s with the same credit issuers — the more points you get.
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July 14th, 2007 by George

From the Post & Courier

Latest article about Summerville Homes

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July 8th, 2007 by George

From wikipedia

Subprime lending, also called “B-Paper”, “near-prime” or “second chance” lending, is a general term that refers to the practice of making loans to borrowers who do not qualify for market interest rates because of problems with their credit history. Subprime loans or mortgages are risky for both creditors and debtors because of the combination of high-interest rates, bad credit history, and murky financial situations often associated with subprime applicants. A subprime loan is one that is offered at a rate higher than A-paper loans due to the increased risk. Subprime lending encompasses a variety of credit instruments, including subprime mortgages, subprime car loans, and subprime credit cards, among others.

Subprime lending is typically defined by the status of borrowers. A subprime loan is, by definition, a loan made to someone who could not qualify for a more favorable rate. Subprime borrowers typically have low credit scores and histories of payment delinquencies, charge-offs, or bankruptcies. Because subprime borrowers are considered at higher risk to default, subprime loans typically have less favorable terms than their traditional counterparts. These terms may include higher interest rates, regular fees, or an up-front charge.

Proponents of the subprime lending in the United States have championed the role it plays in extending credit to consumers who would otherwise not have access to the credit market. But opponents have criticized the subprime lending industry for predatory practices such as targeting borrowers who did not have the resources to meet the terms of their loans over the long term. These criticisms have increased since 2006 in response to the growing crisis in the U.S. subprime mortgage industry, wherein hundreds of thousands of borrowers have been forced to default, and several major subprime lenders have filed for bankruptcy.

Criticisms of subprime lending

Our capital markets operate on the basic premise of risk versus reward. Investors taking a risk on stocks expect a higher rate of return than do investors in risk-free Treasury bills, which are backed by the full faith and credit of the United States. The same goes for loans. Less creditworthy subprime borrowers represent a riskier investment, so lenders will charge them a higher interest rate than they would charge a prime borrower for the same loan.

To avoid the initial hit of higher mortgage payments, most subprime borrowers take out adjustable-rate mortgages that give them a very low initial interest rate of around 4%. But with annual adjustments of 2% or more per year, these loans typically end up charging around 10%. So a $500,000 loan at a 4% interest rate for 30 years equates to a payment of about $2,400 a month. But the same loan at 10% for 27 years (after the adjustable period ends) equates to a payment of $4,470. A 6-percentage-point increase in the rate caused an almost 100% increase in the payment. Ouch!

source: http://www.fool.com/investing/value/2007/07/10/the-skinny-on-subprime.aspx

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July 3rd, 2007 by George

Let me start off by saying… I am not tax expert. I know I pay them, I get good services because I pay them, and they are inevitable. Here is a little information regarding what you can expect.

Once a year, it comes in the mail. The value of your property is X, you owe Y.

Click here to check out the details of the sample tax bill.

Taxes on your home depend on the value of your home, for example:

If you are a Charleston county resident, you can get a 4% assessment rate, versus the normal 6%, if you meet certain conditions. The form can be picked up at your local DMV. More information regarding the special rate can be found here.

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